Until next time

It is now time to depart East Africa and head towards Europe and Portugal. Thanks to all the wonderful people we have met along the way, it has truly been an outstanding experience and we definitely leave with unforgettable memories from this stunning continent, it's people and it's so grand diversity.

To Juliett and Ian we hope you made it to the top without to much struggle and to Matthew it was great meeting you again in Livingstone, enjoy your stay in Botswana and safe continues travel. To Justine thank you for so many good laughs and the constant battle fighting the roaches war on the way thru the night of Zambia. A special thanks to Oscar and his family for being just so adorable fantastic people.

"We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure. There is no end to the adventures we can have if only we seek them with our own eyes." 

Lady Livingstone

We had hooked up with Justine when she arrived to Fawlty towers few days earlier and as all good things comes to an end it was now our last evening together before she continued her travel to Namibia and we sadly had to pack up all our luggage filled with 5 weeks of countless unforgettable moments in continents of such friendliness and stunning beauty and diversity. 

It was now time to a less adrenaline filled way down the Zambezi River as we had booked a sunset cruise on the lavishly luxury yacht Lady Livingstone and we got seated like the Queens without a country on the exclusive upper deck and enjoyed the evening sun as we sat sail down the Zambezi river and towards the African sunset. 

It was one of those moments you wish you would remain in forever. The sun was setting beautifully over the African landscape,  warm delightful evening accomplished with a light breeze. Breath taken moments followed as  we cruised along the river and cherished the evening among the peaceful scenery. 

Life is what you make out of it....

Elephant Back Safari, Zambia

After another restful sleep this day started out with an unexpected bang. My alarm on my watch, although it went off every other morning, failed to go off this morning, or I just didn’t hear it, when I needed to get up at 5:30 am for my Elephant Back Safari. As I was being picked up at 6:45 am, I quickly got dressed, cleaned up, grabbed my camera battery and ran out the door as I wished Lis a great time on her rafting adventure.

13 of us took a short bus ride to the park where we were met by Gerald, our guide for the day. Upon arrival, there was a tea set up for us and as we were welcomed we briefed on the do’s and don’ts of elephant riding. At the same time, gracefully the elephants walked just past us as we were seated to the open area where they lined up and we were all introduced. After pairing up with another member of the group it was agreed that Emily and I would ride Madina, a male elephant with a reputation for dancing off on his own.

There are currently 9 elephants in the park, some are married and with children. It is very interesting to hear about the personalities of the elephants and I was happy learn that even though they are so often entertaining us with these most enjoyable rides they too are always walked to the wild so that they can interact with each other and live as elephants should do.

Getting on the elephant was something that I was picturing in my mind to be quite funny. Fortunately they simplify this step for us with a platform that we get on to be a level with the elephant which makes it much easier then expected. Once comfortably sat (at the beginning anyway) and Madina begins to move you realize quite quickly why it is so important to hold on as we were told in the briefing because as he wrapped his trunk around a branch and with great force moves briskly from side to side to break it away you could easily be thrown right off.
We continued our stroll and stopped by the river to pose for a shot and it was impressive to see the elephants themselves posing to make the shots the best they could be for all of us. Once our walk was over we had the opportunity to feed the elephants and pet them and then too quickly it was time to say good bye.

River rafting, Victoria Falls, Zambia

I do not think I can explain the thrill of white water rafting - it must be experience to understand. The sound, the anticipation, the fear, the adrenaline and the absolute sensation of feeling alive.  We were seven excited people from all over the world whom as a team should get thru the 17 km of harsh water of the falls. 

And so we did, put our trust and fate in the guide whom we had just met an hour earlier. We got a thorough safety brief on the day's upcoming event and signed our life away knowing all possible risk and danger.  

Needless to say the most important thing was to try to remain in the boat, but as he explained it was most likely not going to happen and basically bottom line no panic if we capsized in the heaving breaks and the other very important thing to remember was to stay away from the crocodiles.  

The white water rafting on the Zambezi river has been classed as a Grade 5 - extremely difficult, long and violent rapids, steep gradients, big drops and pressure areas and so it was during this never-to-be-forgotten-day in the wild rapid falls of Victoria falls.  

A day at the victoria falls

We woke up to a clouded and overcast day which in a way was perfect as we had planned for a walk by one of the seven natural wonders of the world. The Victoria falls which are considered to be one of the largest in the world.

We went off the beaten path and enjoyed the solitude. There is no guided tours here so you just take a stroll on the marked paths and watch out not to fall of the cliffs. It is stunning green vegetation and very rainforest like in places.

The first path we choose took us to the bridge and we were provided with two layers of rain ponchos due to the spray the falls creates. We could hear the falls before we could see it and what a stunning view. Unfortunately due to the amount of spray we were not able to get any proper pictures but there is no doubt about the saying "Mosi-o-Tunya" the smoke that thunders as it was such a overwhelming noise and the so called spray came down in buckets to the extend that poncho or no poncho would not have made a different. What a experience to feel the power of the falls so overpowering and grand.


We spent the rest of the day by the Victoria falls and had a fab day out in the wild. We decided to return to the falls before we leave this area just to experience this wonder once more in a life time.

By the way I could not resist. I have just booked myself in for white water river rafting down the falls tomorrow.

Fawlty towers, Livingstone, Zambia

We finally arrived at Fawlty towers, Livingstone Zambia. It had been few days of tiring travel with the public transport and it was with great pleasure to be able to throw our heavy luggage, which we always seems to be dragging with us, into our room.  


Then a stroll out to enjoy the last evening sun by the pool. Nice surroundings, a lot of nature and big trees, tasty yellow strawberry margaritas and busy with travelers from all around the world. 


During the day it is like an Gem in the middle of a busy small town hiden away by a big ugly wall and a security gate. Most people are out during the day so it is perfect to unwind in the breeze under the big three and do some R&R.  Late afternoon the place become busy as the different activities ends and most evening the lobby becomes busy with people watching the news, chatting about the day or doing their emails and playing cards. It is quite different and very nice atmosphere.  

We will remain at this place until the 3 March 2011. 

Lusaka, Zambia

Our travel plans to Livingstone, Zambia was kind of vague or rather none-existent. We had been organized enough to book the train all the way to the end station, but it just happen to be that the end station was in the middle of nowhere in a small place called Kapiri Mposhi where even accommodation was a rarity. And beside that we had no visa either, just hoping that the green American dollars would do the trick without to much hassle when crossing the border to Zambia.

The train company we opted for was Tazara rail as they have the highest safety record in Tanzania and it felt us with joy when we witness the carriages we would live in the next 48-hours. Two days staying on a train there looked like would not even have a change to withstand a slight motion without collapsing. 

Our four-berth cabin was shared with Justine a girl from New Zealand who was headed the same direction as us. And I guess I can say it now after I survived, acceptable means of travel within Africa, beside the many roaches we had a fun killing in between our card games. The service was beyond expectation and the personnel really friendly and chatty.

As the journey went on the train stopped at places literally in nowhere but there somehow always seems to be women and children selling or trading their produces, and so we did - all hanging out the window, yelling and screaming to the locals in order to purchase anything edible as we simply had enough of chicken and rice. We stocked up on avocadoes, bananas and Mango and had a feast with our shared crackers, jam and nuts.

We arrived at Kapiri Mposhi station around noon and went on a horrible 3 hour bus ride to Lusaka where we all were stuff in like refugees in a overfilled hot bus and it was with such much pleasure we arrived to what seems to be Gilligan’s Island in Lusaka, Zambia.

Civilized Zambia – a different world compared to Tanzania. We strolled out in the night into this deserted dark road with flashlight in hand to find the guide books recommendation where we could eat something different than chicken and rice and happy we all where when we saw the very international menu. For the first time ever I ordered a strawberry milk shake, not because I really wanted it, but simply because it could. Fresh cold milk straight from the carton, not freshly boiled milk straight from the cow.I was in heaven. 

We all had a various dishes of Greek and Italian food and enjoyed the moment in silence.

Carpe diem....

Tanzania - Thanks and goodbye

Today we will be leaving Tanzania and it is with great sadness we are leaving this country behind.  It has been such a great experience and a real eye-opener in our so sheltered lives. The Tanzanian people are the most friendliest and welcoming people we have yet today met. We love their country and it has some of the most stunning views we have ever seen or could even imagine existed. 

Thanks to all the Springland hotel Staff which really made our stay so outstanding and a special thanks to Oscar and his family who deliberately went out of their way to make us feel so welcome. Oscar we hope Sarah will enjoy the English books and please promise us not to call the monkey and donkey for Lis and Helen. 

Wish you and your family all the best of luck and good health for you and your family. 

Lis and Helen

Dar Es Salam, Tanzania

Springland hotel

We left Springland hotel behind and started out early morning with a 8 hour bus ride to Dar Es Salam. We opted for the more expensive first class as we were not really in the mood to fight for seats neither to stand up for the duration of the trip and socialize between chickens and locals on the long bumpy drive. 


Shortly after the bus rolled out from the station the tiredness came over us and we slept thru small villages and forrest land and awoke just shortly before arriving into the outskirt of Dar. Dar es Salaam is Tanzania's most important city for both business and government and contains unusually high concentrations of trade. Somehow I had expected a bit more upscale area compare to Moshi, but it all just looked so alike just a lot bigger and more crowded. 


During our stay we toured the city via the local bus Daella-Daella and went to the market and strolled around inhaling the various aromas of sweet, sour and unidentified not so nice smelling areas. It was a great experience but a few hours was enough and we went back to the hotel to get ready for next day 48-hour train ride across the border to Zambia. 

Return and farewell

Time to descent to camp and the three-hour downhill battle turned into a couple of extra hours. The weather was absolutely gorgeous with clear blue sky. We took the opportunity to break more than scheduled in order to absorb the stunning view and for once feel the warmth of the sun. What a perfect stunning day on the slopes of Mount Kilimanjaro. It was for sure not an easy walk down and several of us unwillingly took the hills a little faster than expected.

We reached camp around noon and due to one of our fellow climbers got symptoms of altitude sickness we packed up, had lunch and were on our way down again to the next camp within the next 1hour. And the rain started and it rained and rained for the duration of the day and when we finally went to bed it were with a great joy of knowing it was the last night in the damp tent as the following day twe would be back at “Moshi Hilton” for our first shower in 8 days.

The following day we walked the rainforest during the morning hours and enjoyed the final part of the Mount Kilimanjaro adventure. The rain forrest was absolutely stunning and very peaceful with the many unfamiliar birds and great view of  the tick vegetation and trees. We strolled down to civilization and was picked up by our bus there took us back to "Hotel Hilton" in Moshi. 

Uhuru peak, the highest point on the African continent

We were woken up by 1030 hrs and were absolutely not rested for the excessive amount of hours there laid ahead of us. Quietly we dressed up like the Michelin-man, seven layers of thermal wear and fleeces. It was difficult to move around in the confined tent while we were trying to get the last bits and pieces packed in our daypack. 

Just before 11pm we all met in the main tent and was checked out by our guides, was provided a hot freshly brewed tea and chocolate biscuits and shortly after 8 tense climbers headed out into the night and towards Uhuru peak at an altitude of 5895 meters. 

We have booked these specific dates for the climb due to the full moon and were hoping to get a little help from Mother Nature. Despite the many previous days of reduced visibility and rain, the night was calm with a clear star filled sky and with the moon beautifully lighting up the snow covered ground. This was just amazing and how lucky we were.

 

It was a steep beginning and so it would continue for the next 6 hours to Stella point at an altitude of 5756 meters. I was awe by the beauty of this incredible postcard-picture-perfect-landscape and looking at the mountain there stood so bold and tall was just motivation enough to keep those heavy acid legs of mine going.

In this place, so far away from civilization and life, only surrounded by the tranquility of the harsh mountain it unwillingly brought the thoughts to the bigger picture in life, the past, present and future. With so very little effort to understand a person’s place in the universe, so insignificant, so vulnerable and yet I felt so proud and touch by the greatness and the beauty I stood within. I felt so privilege.

  

Sometimes around 3am the fatigue and cold was so overwhelming.  I slipped a couple of times and was not sure if I at times was actually sleepwalking. Every step was in automatic mode and the effort to just breath became apparent. I felt lightheaded and counted 27 breaths per minutes. I felt like I have just ended a fast paced run, the heart pumping against the chest wall and lungs burning in the cold air. Feet was dragging and the only thing on my mind was just “the top”

Our water bottles had started to freeze and it became a challenge to drink the ice-cold water yet we still forced our self to remain focused, walk steady pace, breath deeply and most of all keep motivated. It was a difficult time. 

Around 5am I could just vaguely outline of the top of the mountain. Soon. We would make it. We were almost there and when we finally reached what felt like heaven and stood at Stella point it was such an emotional feeling.

The astonishment of being part of this, the accomplishment. We hugged each other, tired, exhausted and very happy. We had just completed the hardest part of the journey and now a relative flat journey to reach Uhuru peak.

The sun started to rise as we walked along the glacier towards Uhuru peak. The time did not exist, the tiredness and fatigue had varnish, I felt so alive.  45 minutes later we stood at our final goal at the highest point of the African continent, at the highest top of the freestanding mountain in the world. We made it all the way to the top. 

Prior to summit night

We had a quick breakfast surrounded by the stunning view of the snow-covered mountain. The weather this morning seemed to be on our side with only few light clouds and no anticipated rain. Temperature was just below freezing and a light breeze from the north.

We departed Karanga Camp shortly after breakfast and had a few hours walk to reach Barafu camp. We were all excited about our accomplishment so far, but nothing would compare it to actually reach the highest peak on the African continent. The only thing in our mind was to remain in a healthy state without catching a cold or twists an ankle, which would severely deplete our energy or chances to reach the summit.

The weather turned against us mid afternoon and we were met with icing hail and rain. The trail was becoming so slippery that it was very difficult to walk without sliding and gliding on the rough terrain. The short walk to reach our final camp before summit turned into long, mind-struggling hours of just pacing one foot in front of the other in order to keep moving, keeping dry and warm. I was not really a happy camper any longer and was not living in the moment. I was visualizing myself home in front of the fireplace, clean, warm and far away from the biting cold.   

We finally reached camp around 2pm and before we had checked in we witnessed 3 climbers from other groups being escorted down due to illness. This gave some thoughts to the seriousness of the altitude we were going to sleep at and the devastating feeling of reaching that far, all that effort and then have to give it all up unwillingly. I felt with the sick climbers and hope that all turned well in the end.

We had our lunch at 4pm, which was not favorable to any of us, as dinner would be served at 6pm due to the early ascend to the summit at 11pm. The guides strongly recommended against skipping dinner as we needed all the energy to keep warm for the possible -24 degrees Celsius at the top and to withstand the continues 12-14 hours walk.  

It would be a very short night and we finally laid wrapped up in our sleeping bags at 8pm. Restless, thinking, visualizing, so close and still so far away.

Few hours and we would be on our way.